While Calonge is certainly less high-profile than some of its popular neighboring towns along the Costa Brava, it offers a unique blend of seaside relaxation and medieval history.
The municipality of Calonge is divided into two distinct areas: the modern beach resort of Sant Antoni de Calonge along the coast, and the village of Calonge, a medieval hilltop community centered around a castle, located about 4 km inland.
This combination makes Calonge unique among Spanish municipalities. Travelers can spend their days relaxing on sandy beaches, then head up to the old village in the evening to enjoy the historical atmosphere over Catalan cuisine. There’s also no shortage of cultural events, outdoor activities like hiking, and cozy spots for book lovers (more on that later).
Medieval Calonge
The history of Calonge dates back to ancient times. Archaeological evidence indicates that people lived here during Prehistoric Iberia and the Roman Empire. The Romans used Calonge as a summer retreat, and remnants of a Roman road can still be seen today.
Calonge’s significance grew during the medieval period, particularly from the 12th century onward. It became a fortified settlement under the jurisdiction of the barons of Cruïlles, who governed until the 15th century. The construction of a castle to defend against Arab raids marked this era. The original structure included a square tower (Torre Quadrada) that was later expanded into what is now known as Calonge Castle. In the 16th century, it was transformed into a palace with gardens, creating the view seen today.
This formidable castle is the centerpiece of the old village, with the aforementioned Torre Quadrada being the oldest surviving part of the structure. The castle is characterized by massive walls, towering turrets, and an imposing entrance. Its design includes arrow slits and decorative battlements that enhance its medieval aesthetic. The castle has undergone numerous transformations and expansions over the centuries, reflecting various architectural styles, predominantly Romanesque and Gothic.
Today, Calonge Castle hosts many of the town’s key events, like fairs, concerts, and art exhibitions. One of the biggest celebrations takes place during Easter weekend when the Calonge Medieval Market takes over. The old town around the castle comes alive with people in medieval costumes, craft fairs, workshops, and street performances.
Sant Marti church, located in the main square of Doma village, is another piece of Calonge’s medieval heritage. Built around the 12th-14th centuries, it’s seen many changes over the years—the biggest one happening in the 18th century, when it was heavily revamped in the baroque style.
The church stands out for its size, with a wide nave and eight interconnected chapels that create the impression of two lateral aisles. The east-facing facade has an elegant portal, while the southern side features a three-story square bell tower with remnants of Romanesque architecture.
An interesting incident happened in October 2022, when lightning struck the church tower’s clock, stopping it at 2:15 a.m. Without repairs for months, locals launched a campaign called “Calonge, What Time Is It?” to pressure authorities to fix the clock and bring back the sound of the bells. Their wishes were finally fulfilled in February 2023, when the clock and bells were repaired and brought back to life.
If you’re into panoramic views, you might want to check out the ruins of the medieval Torre de la Creu del Castellar watchtower. Though only stone remains of what was once the tallest tower in the region, its strategic hilltop location offers stunning 360-degree views of the surrounding area.
For those looking to stay somewhere with a bit of history, “Hotel Mas 1670” is a great option. This family-run hotel is housed in a beautifully restored 17th-century farmhouse, keeping its original stone walls, vaulted ceilings, and wooden beams. Located in a peaceful spot just five minutes from the Calonge Castle, it features an outdoor pool with a lounge area and, most importantly, serves up delicious and hearty breakfasts.
A brief History of Sant Antoni de Calonge
Between the villages of Sant Feliu de Guíxols and Palamós lies Sant Antoni de Calonge, a modern part of Calonge. Until the late 18th century, this area remained almost uninhabited, mainly due to the threat of piracy. In fact, because of the fear of these pirate attacks, the historic town of Calonge was established 4 km inland, which was a common practice at the time.
The Torre Valentina in Sant Antoni de Calonge stands as a reminder of this era – a defensive watchtower from the late 15th century. Rising 10 meters above the sand, the tower features a typical regional design: round, with a single entrance accessible only by rope ladders. It is the only surviving coastal fortification and was once part of a network of towers that lined the shore. These structures served to spot approaching pirate ships and warn locals of impending attacks.
As piracy declined in the late 18th century, fishing villages began to emerge along the coast, including Sant Antoni de Calonge. During the Spanish Civil War (1936–1939), Sant Antoni briefly operated as an independent town under various names before reuniting with Calonge.
Beaches of Sant Antoni de Calonge
Visitors to Sant Antoni de Calonge are mainly drawn by its beaches. The main and largest one is Sant Antoni Beach, stretching 1.5 km with fine golden sand. The water here is usually warm, and the shore has a gentle slope into the sea. There’s also a promenade next to it lined with various restaurants and bars.
Separated from Sant Antoni Beach by the Calonge stream is Torre Valentina Beach, named after already mentioned defensive tower at its end. This beach, about 500 meters long, is popular among snorkelers due to its clear waters.
While these main beaches can become crowded during peak season, several quieter alternatives offer a more tranquil experience. Can Cristus Beach, located about 2.5 km from Sant Antoni de Calonge, is a broader sandy option that tends to be less crowded. The nearby rocky cove Cala del Paller is perfect for those seeking a rawer, more natural setting. Just a short walk along the coastal path, you’ll find Cala Cap Roig, easily recognizable by its iconic reddish rock formation. This cove splits into two small sandy inlets, providing a sheltered and scenic spot to relax.
Where to Stay in Sant Antoni de Calonge
If you’re looking for a place to stay in Sant Antoni de Calonge, nothing beats a beachfront location with gorgeous ocean views right at your doorstep.
I can recommend a few options. The first, and probably the best choice, is the Rosamar hotel. It’s right on the main Sant Antoni beach, giving you that real beach vibe. They’ve also got a large outdoor pool where you can relax under the palm trees, and if the weather’s a bit cooler, there’s a heated indoor pool too. During the peak summer season, the price can get pretty high—if you book last minute, it might go up to 400 EUR per night. But if you visit in the shoulder season, like in April or May, you can snag a room for around 100 EUR a night.
Another more affordable beachfront option is Hotel Reimar, located near Torre Valentina. It’s perfect for travelers looking for a peaceful getaway. The area is quiet, with lots of scenic spots nearby. Plus, there are enough little restaurants around, so you won’t feel completely disconnected from civilization. In the summer, rooms here go for about 200 EUR, but in spring, the price drops to around 70-80 EUR per night.
If you’re after a beachfront stay at a lower cost, Hotel Aubí offers rooms for about 100 EUR per night, even during the summer season.
Calonge: Town of Books
But Calonge isn’t just about history and beaches. In December 2021, the town launched an initiative called “Calonge, poble de llibres” (Calonge, book town). The goal? To become one of the first official “book towns” in Catalonia—cultural hubs focused on literature and reading.
As part of this initiative, seven bookstores opened over the span of a few months—six in the medieval quarters of Calonge and one by the coast. Unfortunately, three years later, only five are still operating today. Two of them—Libelista Calonge and Rals Llibres—are general bookstores, while the others are more niche. Mengem Cultura sells culinary books, La Fàbrica focuses on music, and Calonge Còmics, as the name suggests, specializes in comics.
Beyond the specialized bookstores, there are year-round literary events. These festivals center around books and reading, featuring author talks, writing workshops, and more.
By becoming a top destination for books and book lovers, Calonge aims to promote cultural tourism. Visitors can browse books while supporting local businesses and attending special events. For any bibliophile, Calonge, now a book town, is the perfect vacation spot—not just for the body, but for the mind too.
The Flavors of Calonge
When it comes to food, the gastronomy of Calonge reflects the broader traditions of the Costa Brava and the Girona Pyrenees regions. The cuisine brings together the flavors of the sea and land, though seafood takes center stage on most menus.
Just like in the entire Costa Brava region, the most popular dish in Calonge is Palamós shrimp. These shrimp are famous for their intense red color and rich, slightly sweet flavor, typically served grilled or in paella.
Another traditional dish is Suquet de Peix. This classic fish stew is a staple along the Catalan coast, originally prepared by fishermen with their unsold catch. The stew combines various fish, often with potatoes and spices.
Traditional Spanish tapas are also popular here. Local bodegas often serve pan con tomate (bread with tomatoes), often paired with regional sausages and high-quality extra virgin olive oil.
Among the top restaurant recommendations is Refugio de Pescadores. Its extensive menu includes rice dishes, fresh seafood, and fish from their own farms, with dishes like sea bass with fennel. Dining on the restaurant’s terrace, you can enjoy stunning coastal views.
For a taste of homemade cuisine, check out Guillermu. Their menu is crafted with ingredients sourced directly from Calonge and nearby Palamós. Alongside traditional seafood dishes, they offer unique options like Roman-style squid and fried sea bass. Meals are complemented by local wine and desserts such as creamy flan and tiramisu.
Hiking the Scenic Trails of Calonge
Calonge is bordered on nearly all sides by the Gavarres Massif, creating a natural amphitheater of hills and countless streams overlooking the Mediterranean. This scenic landscape is perfect for walking, hiking, and cycling along the many trails. In total, the Gavarres covers over 350 sq km, with its tallest peak reaching 533 meters above sea level.
I highly recommend the Puig Cargol hike, which ascends 363 meters to the summit of Puig Cargol hill. The Camí del Puig Cargol path leads you through peaceful nature up to the top. Another historical option is the Santa Maria de Bell-lloc route. As you walk, you can take in both natural vistas and architectural sights.
For coastal trails, the stunning Camí de Ronda hugs the cliffs overlooking coves and the sea. It follows part of the GR-92 long-distance walking route, also called the Sendero del Mediterráneo or Mediterranean Path. One especially beautiful section runs from Torre Valentina to Castell-Platja d’Aro – an approx. 10 km round trip between pine trees, coves, and oceanside panoramas.
Exploring the Wines of Calonge
The area around Calonge is not only full of scenic walking trails, but also home to excellent wineries. Situated in the DO Empordà Wine Route region, Calonge has more than 30 nearby vineyards producing a wide range of local wines.
The Empordà wine region is divided into two sub-regions: Alt Empordà and Baix Empordà. While Alt Empordà may be more well-known, the Baix Empordà area where Calonge is located features many high-quality wineries as well. Best of all, most of these vineyards can be reached by hiking trails, making Calonge the perfect destination for combining beautiful scenery with tastings of fine regional wines.
Some of the top wineries I recommend visiting include Clos d’Agon, Mas Molla, Mas Ponsjoan and Celler Viníric. Keep in mind that tours and tastings at these establishments require advance reservations, which can usually be made through their websites. Also note that some wineries may not offer visits during the busy harvest season from mid-August to mid-October.
For a special wine experience, time your visit to Calonge for mid-November to take part in the New Wine Festival. Held as part of the week-long Winter “Fiesta Mayor” celebrations honoring San Martín, this festival centers around the historic town center. The highlight is the tasting of the year’s freshly made new wines, a tradition dating back centuries. Sampling the latest vintage straight from the barrel offers a uniquely authentic immersion in the area’s wine heritage and culture.
Calonge Weather and Best Time to Visit
Calonge has that classic Mediterranean vibe, with warm summers and mild winters.
December to April is the coolest time in Calonge, with average daytime temperatures around 14-16°C (57-61°F) and nighttime temperatures dropping to 3-5°C (37-41°F).
April and November are almost twins in terms of temperature, with around 18-19°C (64-66°F) during the day and 7-8°C (45-46°F) at night.
By May and October, things start to warm up nicely, with daytime temperatures hitting around 22°C (72°F) and plenty more sunshine.
The main holiday season in Calonge kicks off in June and runs until late September, offering loads of sun and warm nights. But of course, this also means peak prices, especially in August when accommodation rates reach their highest.
If you’re after the best mix of pleasant weather and reasonable prices, consider visiting in May or October. As mentioned, the temperatures are quite comfortable—some might say perfect—if you’re more into hiking or winery tours than beach days. Plus, it’s one of the most budget-friendly times to visit, with accommodation costs potentially three to four times cheaper than in August.
Getting to Calonge
The nearest airport to Calonge is Girona-Costa Brava Airport (GRO), located approximately 40 km away. By car, the journey takes about 40 minutes. Buses also run from Girona Bus Station to Calonge, with the trip lasting around 1 hour. However, keep in mind that you will need to take a separate bus from the airport to reach the Girona Bus Station.
Alternatively, Barcelona-El Prat Airport is situated about 130 km from Calonge. Driving from this airport takes roughly 1 hour and 30 minutes. For those preferring public transportation, a direct bus operates between Barcelona Airport and Sant Antoni de Calonge, with a travel time of approximately 2 hours and 30 minutes.